Gallipoli: An Italian Treasure

A Puglian Gem

A few cats laze in the shadow of a warm Fall sun. During this visit to Gallipoli, I have yet to encounter an American tourist. This is one of the wonderful benefits to visiting Gallipoli, and Puglia, during the off season.

Riviera Armando Diaz at sunsetIt is a lovely October evening. After a short afternoon break at the Relais Corte Palmieri, my favorite hotel in the centro storico (old city), I stroll above the sea walls on the Riviera Armando Diaz. This section of the perimeter road around the old city is named for one of the few generals to achieve the title of Marshal of Italy, Maresciallo d’Italia. Some late sun worshipers lie on the beach below the sea wall. Meanwhile, the sky transitions from blue to sunset orange. A light breeze helps keep the shadowed spaces cool. 

Dinner this evening will be at Yellow Scarpace, located along the Riviera. The delicious food and lovely view from the terrace created an exceptional experience last evening. Thus, I look forward to another wonderful meal. As I take my seat on Scarpace’s terrace, I make notes about how I will share with others the feeling, the sense, of this beautiful island, Gallipoli’s historic “old city.” 

Old and New Gallipoli

Imagine emerald-colored seas in every direction. An ancient harbor, at one time the largest in the Mediterranean for the exportation of olive oil, welcomes boats of all sizes to its marina. Large sea walls, some thirty feet high, encircle the island. Narrow lanes lead to gorgeous structures, some with Baroque carved facades. 

The “new city” is on the mainland and, absent a few post-World War II buildings with interesting architecture, it holds no comparison to the historic beauty of the centro storico of the island.  A 16th Century bridge connects the mainland to the old city. Every time I pass the imposing Castello di Gallipoli (13th and 16th Centuries) at the end of the bridge on the island, I feel the centuries fade away.

The facades of buildings, like that of the Cathedral of Sant’Agata, patron saint of the city, glow golden in the early evening light. Local Caparo stone was used to carve the Baroque façade of the church, which provides a strong evocation of the Sicilian Baroque cities of Noto, Ragusa, and Modica. 

The Cathedral of Sant’Agata provides one of the highlights of a visit to the city. The Cathedral is constructed on the foundation, and around the columns, of an ancient Greek temple. The dimly lit interior, illuminated by narrow Byzantine era windows, evokes that period of occupation. I also enjoy visiting the Diocesan Museum next door. It houses hundreds of historic artifacts tracing the history of the church’s past and its reconstruction. 

When to see Gallipoli

Some clients have asked, “When is the best time to visit this region of Italy?” 

During the height of the summer tourist season, avoid places like Gallipoli. The crowds are intense, especially in the narrow lanes on the island. Subsequently, numerous small shops, on both sides of the historic lanes, are so busy that you cannot avoid the crush of crowds and the heat. Therefore, it is best to wait for the months of October, November, March, and pre-Easter April. You may find some restaurants and shops are not open during these “off season” months, but the soothing Mediterranean breezes and lack of crowds more than make up for some minor inconveniences. 

Certainly, consider visiting Gallipoli — and all of Puglia — on the off season. You will discover treasures of ancient history. Restaurateurs, hotel and shop owners, and guides will warmly welcome you.

 

 

(This blog was first drafted prior to the COVID outbreak)